I’m José Luis ( Pepe actually), an official guide in Andalusia and a devoted admirer of the sort of Seville that still survives quietly behind the souvenir shops and orange trees. My tours are less about ticking monuments off a list and more about understanding the peculiar charm of the city: its old taverns, hidden courtyards, impossible history, glorious food, and the small habits of local life that rarely appear in guidebooks. I tend to believe that travelling should feel more like wandering through a city with a well-informed friend than being herded about in a group armed with matching headphones. Which brings me to a delicate matter: if you are a party of twenty-four energetic souls, I shall very respectfully suggest finding another guide. But if you prefer the quieter side of Seville, we are likely to get along splendidly.